Ax Maintenance: THE BASICS

How can I keep the blade, sharpness and handle of my axes, hatchets and hammers from splitting as long as possible?

Not only professionals know that good care and correct storage extend the life of axes and axes. With the right knowledge and a few simple steps, the sharpness of the blade, the quality of the wood and the connection between the head and the handle can be permanently maintained.

So that forestry tools maintain their usefulness for a long time.

MAINTENANCE AFTER USE
FIRST THE RAG, THEN THE WORKHEAD
Wood and forestry work is exhausting. After felling and stacking what seems like 100 m3 of wood, it's tempting to hang your ax or mallet in the shed and put your feet up. If you invest a little time, you will win in the long run. After use, cleaning and care are important: a little effort with a big effect. Clean the ax head with a rag and rub it with a cloth and a drop of anti-corrosion oil. Unfortunately, marks such as scratches and scrapes cannot be avoided on striking tools. If you want to return your tool to its original shape, you can also clean it with a grinding stone. A brief guide in four steps.

1. PRE-SHARRP AND FILE THE RARENESS OF THE CUTTING EDGE
Tools and materials:

• double grinder
• File or grindstone
• Water to cool

Coarse nicks and scratches can be pre-sharpened either on a double grinder or with a file. When using a double grinder, grinding in the direction of rotation or against it is a matter of taste. If you sharpen in the opposite direction of rotation, there are fewer burrs. On the other hand, in the direction of rotation there is less danger of tilting, making this sharpening technique especially advantageous for thick edges.

It is important to always sharpen evenly on both sides of the edge to maintain the original shape. Tip: Mark the rounded contour on the ax head with a fiber pencil and try not to change the cutting angle when sharpening.

The pads and cheeks of the ax are crown-shaped: "flattening" them can have a negative effect on the life of the blade. For added safety, use a fine-toothed flat file. When sharpening at an angle, the file or disc must also always treat the entire surface of the cutting edge so that a bulbous sharpening does not occur.

Especially when machining the ax head, attention must be paid to the heat generated. If the head of the ax turns bluish - the so-called "tempering color" - it is an unmistakable sign that the steel has been heated too much. Therefore, the motto is "cold, cold, cold" and do not exert too much force when working.

2. GIVE THE FINAL TOUCHES
Tools and materials:

• Coarse grinding wheel
• fine grinding wheel
• Water or oil

To remove the burr and sharpen the edge, a sharpening stone such as the OX 3000-0200 from Ochsenkopf is best suited. Moisten the whetstone for best results.

The sharpening stone should not bend even after prolonged use. So work the ax more with the edges of the stone, rotate it regularly and sharpen both sides to remove the edge.

Rubbing the whetstone in between removes any stuck-on burrs that could damage the edge. Of course, it is also important to clean the whetstone well after use; This can be done with simple home remedies, such as a nail brush and liquid detergent.

3. TEAR FROM THE LEATHER
Tools and material:

• leather strap

For the nostalgic or those who value details: After sharpening, the ax can be sharpened with a leather strap. This also eliminates minimal burrs. The sharper a blade or ax is, the faster it dulls when used. Here you have to find the optimal sharpening for you. With soft woods, such as poplar, the ax may be sharper than with hard woods, such as oak. And a small but important tip: please make sure to move the leather away from the edge.

4. THE FINAL TOUCH
Tools and materials:

• Anti-corrosion oil
• soft cloth

After pre-sharpening, removing rarities and scratches, fine sharpening and sharpening, the ax is cleaned with a cloth. Once the remains of burrs and the last traces have been removed, anti-corrosion oil is applied in fine doses to a soft cloth and spread over the entire head of the axe. The oil is completely absorbed into the head and seals the material. This step – cleaning and applying oil – can be done after each use.

STORAGE OF FOREST TOOLS
NEITHER TOO DRY, NOR TOO WET
Forestry tools are intended for outdoor use and can therefore withstand wind and weather, but incorrect storage in a place that is too humid or too dry can damage the steel and wood.

If the ax is stored too wet, rust will soon appear on the ax head. This does not reduce safety when working with the ax, but it does have an unsightly appearance. The situation is different with the handle. Wood is a natural product and its physical properties change if it is stored in an excessively humid environment. If wood becomes wet, it loses strength, including bending strength. The handle can break more easily.

It shouldn't be too dry either. If the handle of the ax loses moisture, the wood begins to work and changes its dimensions. More specifically, the wood shrinks and no longer sits firmly at the joint with the ax head.

The ax and company are in good hands in the tool shed or in a dry, unheated warehouse without direct sunlight in winter.